I am frequently asked, "Bob, I want a Chardonnay that is oaky but not buttery and not expensive, what have you got?" I fumblishly reply that it doesn't exist, oak aging lends to butteryness. Well, guess who proved me wrong?
If you said a South African winery, you are correct. Jardin 2008 Chardonnay at $14.99 a bottle surprised the bleep out of me with its rich complex oak flavor in harmony with great acidity, minerality and all-around yummy flavors. I can see this wine being the lobster clambake wine for the summer of 2009, if the sun would ever come out this year in New England.
For you international folks, the Jardin label exists for the United States. In South Africa, the Jordan family owns the property, makes the wines and has no relation to the Jordan family of California, hence the name difference. The rest of the world sees the wine as Jordan Chardonnay of South Africa.
And a real clambake has chowdah, made with milk. State law in Massachusetts.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Name Dropping
I had dinner the other night with Brewer Raats. One of the larger than life itself wine characters in the trade, he prides himself in Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Heck, he owns an Irish pub in South African college town, how cool is that?
He told a story about a night of wine tasting with fellow South African winemakers where each winemaker had to bring "the wine that changed you" or something to that effect. He brought Chateau Cheval Blanc, one of the seven great Bordeauxs, along with Mouton, Lafite et al. Cheval Blanc has lots of Cabernet Franc in its blend and his desire was to create a wine in the style of Cheval Blanc.
Zip forward to last weeks dinner in Boston and he brought his Raats Family 2001 Cabernet Franc and a 1998 Chat. Cheval Blanc. His is $30 a bottle, the Cheval Blanc is conservatively worth about $300. The only difference I could detect was that the Cheval Blanc had a little sweeter fruit flavor. Presently at the store we offer the yummy 2006 Raats Cabernet Franc at $29.99 a bottle and will add the 2007 at the same price. Drinkable and cellarable for less than $30 is ridiculous. That night we had them with Wild Boar and Mushroom over Pasta. Great match.
And if you want to really splurge, he is in partnership in a wine called MR de Compostella. Around $100 a bottle, and you can only imagine what a wonderful age-worthy wine this is.
He told a story about a night of wine tasting with fellow South African winemakers where each winemaker had to bring "the wine that changed you" or something to that effect. He brought Chateau Cheval Blanc, one of the seven great Bordeauxs, along with Mouton, Lafite et al. Cheval Blanc has lots of Cabernet Franc in its blend and his desire was to create a wine in the style of Cheval Blanc.
Zip forward to last weeks dinner in Boston and he brought his Raats Family 2001 Cabernet Franc and a 1998 Chat. Cheval Blanc. His is $30 a bottle, the Cheval Blanc is conservatively worth about $300. The only difference I could detect was that the Cheval Blanc had a little sweeter fruit flavor. Presently at the store we offer the yummy 2006 Raats Cabernet Franc at $29.99 a bottle and will add the 2007 at the same price. Drinkable and cellarable for less than $30 is ridiculous. That night we had them with Wild Boar and Mushroom over Pasta. Great match.
And if you want to really splurge, he is in partnership in a wine called MR de Compostella. Around $100 a bottle, and you can only imagine what a wonderful age-worthy wine this is.
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Alternatives to Chardonnay
and Pinot Grigio. The two most popular white wine grapes in the USA are Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. When I started in the business 2 score ago Chenin Blanc was the most popular grape variety. I remember my first trip to California and visiting the tiny J. Lohr winery in a former fire station in San Jose, if my memory is not failing me, and being told they were discontinuing my most favorite wine, Chenin Blanc.
Today, the best bang for the buck white wine is Chenin Blanc. Lighter than Chardonnay, richer than Pinot Grigio, it can be made in a variety of styles to the whim of the winemaker and vineyard manager.
South Africa produces the best Chenin Blanc values in the world today. Our most popular white wine in the store for the last few years has been the Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc at $9.99 a bottle. However, I just set up a display in the store of 3 different and delicious Chenin Blancs, each for $14.99 a bottle. You get to pick your favorite.
First, the "Unwooded" Chenin Blanc from Raats Family is a crisp refreshing minerally essence of peach dry white wine. Lovely bank of the Charles River cheese and cracker wine for a warm spring-summer day.
Second, the lightly wooded Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc. This touch of oak adds a component of vanilla to the wine. You could also take this to the Charles but the picnic basket with chicken and salads in addition to the cheese would be a better match.
Third, the moderately wooded Graham Beck Gamekeeper's Reserve Chenin Blanc is oaked more like a California Chardonnay. This richer wine is yummy with the rainy day picnic with the chicken right out of the oven.
Finally, if you want the outrageous Chenin Blanc, you are more than welcome to plunk down $59.99 a bottle for the FMC. Save this bottle for a great white meat meal for a very special occasion. First time I tried it, I thought it was over-oaked. But it passed the empty glass test. You know, when you try a variety of wines, the glass that keeps being emptied most often is the best wine.
Today, the best bang for the buck white wine is Chenin Blanc. Lighter than Chardonnay, richer than Pinot Grigio, it can be made in a variety of styles to the whim of the winemaker and vineyard manager.
South Africa produces the best Chenin Blanc values in the world today. Our most popular white wine in the store for the last few years has been the Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc at $9.99 a bottle. However, I just set up a display in the store of 3 different and delicious Chenin Blancs, each for $14.99 a bottle. You get to pick your favorite.
First, the "Unwooded" Chenin Blanc from Raats Family is a crisp refreshing minerally essence of peach dry white wine. Lovely bank of the Charles River cheese and cracker wine for a warm spring-summer day.
Second, the lightly wooded Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc. This touch of oak adds a component of vanilla to the wine. You could also take this to the Charles but the picnic basket with chicken and salads in addition to the cheese would be a better match.
Third, the moderately wooded Graham Beck Gamekeeper's Reserve Chenin Blanc is oaked more like a California Chardonnay. This richer wine is yummy with the rainy day picnic with the chicken right out of the oven.
Finally, if you want the outrageous Chenin Blanc, you are more than welcome to plunk down $59.99 a bottle for the FMC. Save this bottle for a great white meat meal for a very special occasion. First time I tried it, I thought it was over-oaked. But it passed the empty glass test. You know, when you try a variety of wines, the glass that keeps being emptied most often is the best wine.
Monday, April 13, 2009
Peanut Butter and Jelly
I love the classic matches, bacon and eggs, peanut butter and jelly and Champagne and caviar, even though I hate caviar, but I get how it works. I am nominating pork and Rioja as the new classic match.
This past Easter my sister-in-law regaled the family with a ham and a pork loin on the bone. Among her guests were a couple visiting her parents from Barcelona, Spain. Since I was in charge of bringing the wine, I opted for a variety of red wines including a few from Spain. The fruitier reds were a nice match with the ham, always go for fruit with ham to counterbalance the sweetish glaze, but the Rioja and the pork created oohs and aahs from myself and the guests. Everyone got it!
The simple Rioja, Vina Hermina $12.99 at the store, was enhanced by the pork and the pork brought out the best in the wine. Synergy! It seemed like the pork smoothed out the edges in the wine and brought out the best flavors. The wine in concert with the pork seemed to make the meat juicier and more flavorful. Gah, just re-read what I just wrote and this is one instance where 1000 words are not worth one taste.
Next time you are roasting or grilling pork, whether ribs, chops or loins, serve any red Rioja and taste what I am attempting to write about. Caveat, it doesn't work with barbeque sauce.
This past Easter my sister-in-law regaled the family with a ham and a pork loin on the bone. Among her guests were a couple visiting her parents from Barcelona, Spain. Since I was in charge of bringing the wine, I opted for a variety of red wines including a few from Spain. The fruitier reds were a nice match with the ham, always go for fruit with ham to counterbalance the sweetish glaze, but the Rioja and the pork created oohs and aahs from myself and the guests. Everyone got it!
The simple Rioja, Vina Hermina $12.99 at the store, was enhanced by the pork and the pork brought out the best in the wine. Synergy! It seemed like the pork smoothed out the edges in the wine and brought out the best flavors. The wine in concert with the pork seemed to make the meat juicier and more flavorful. Gah, just re-read what I just wrote and this is one instance where 1000 words are not worth one taste.
Next time you are roasting or grilling pork, whether ribs, chops or loins, serve any red Rioja and taste what I am attempting to write about. Caveat, it doesn't work with barbeque sauce.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Work, work, work
My first day of Spring is the annual Cape Cod Wine Tasting Show held in the beautiful Chatham Bars Inn. In my foolish youth, I tried to taste all the wines at the show, this year close to 700, but like fine wine, my age has made me better. 200 wines tasted in about 3 hours is my limit now. Here are the few winners that I ordered for the store. They should, repeat should, arrive within the next two weeks, hopefully in time for Easter. This short list further proves, that I taste all the bad wines so you don't have to. These wines are in no particular order, they are just good and good value.
Casillero del Diablo 2006 "Riserva Privada" Cabernet/Syrah blend $17.99
Big, luscious and yummy
A.A. Bastianich (yes, that family)2007 Malvasia $39.99
Hole in the head wine, I don't need it, but it was a stunning dry white and I had to have it.
Josh Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon "Amber Knolls" $19.99
Just what you want in California Cab.
Lioco 2007 Unoaked Sonoma Chardonnay $19.99
Surprisingly rich flavors for an unoaked Chard.
The Wishing Tree 2008 Chardonnay AND 2006 Shiraz $11.99 each
From Western Australia, more acid, less over-ripe flavors, well done.
Angeline 2006 Chardonnay Russian River $14.99
Great value for classic California style
Angeline 2006 Merlot Russian River $14.99
Way too tasty and smooth for its price point!
Martin Ray 2006 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara $19.99
Only wine I tried that I inquired about buying the entire Mass. allotment.
Ken Forrester Petite Pinotage 2008 $9.99
Hate-Love, Hated this wine for years. Love this vintage!
De Trafford Shiraz "Blueprint" 2005 $39.99
BIG , enjoyable, cellarable, for a leg of lamb. Very limited!
Corte Rugolin Valpolicella Classico 2007 $14.99
Too good for red sauce!
Graham Beck Chenin Blanc "Gamekeeper's Reserve" $14.99
Tired of Chardonnay? Drink this!
Vinos Sin-Ley M5 (Monastrell) 2007 $14.99
Big, smooth, smokey, perfect for Catsup covered cuisine.
Vinos Sin-Ley Puntazo Rose' 2008 $9.99
A snoutful of fresh strawberries in a dry pink wine. Bring on Summer!
Typical average results, 7.5% worthy, 92.5% I don't want you to taste.
Blisters on my tongue healing until the second Cape show in 10 days and I get to do it all over again. New wines of course.
Casillero del Diablo 2006 "Riserva Privada" Cabernet/Syrah blend $17.99
Big, luscious and yummy
A.A. Bastianich (yes, that family)2007 Malvasia $39.99
Hole in the head wine, I don't need it, but it was a stunning dry white and I had to have it.
Josh Cellars 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon "Amber Knolls" $19.99
Just what you want in California Cab.
Lioco 2007 Unoaked Sonoma Chardonnay $19.99
Surprisingly rich flavors for an unoaked Chard.
The Wishing Tree 2008 Chardonnay AND 2006 Shiraz $11.99 each
From Western Australia, more acid, less over-ripe flavors, well done.
Angeline 2006 Chardonnay Russian River $14.99
Great value for classic California style
Angeline 2006 Merlot Russian River $14.99
Way too tasty and smooth for its price point!
Martin Ray 2006 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara $19.99
Only wine I tried that I inquired about buying the entire Mass. allotment.
Ken Forrester Petite Pinotage 2008 $9.99
Hate-Love, Hated this wine for years. Love this vintage!
De Trafford Shiraz "Blueprint" 2005 $39.99
BIG , enjoyable, cellarable, for a leg of lamb. Very limited!
Corte Rugolin Valpolicella Classico 2007 $14.99
Too good for red sauce!
Graham Beck Chenin Blanc "Gamekeeper's Reserve" $14.99
Tired of Chardonnay? Drink this!
Vinos Sin-Ley M5 (Monastrell) 2007 $14.99
Big, smooth, smokey, perfect for Catsup covered cuisine.
Vinos Sin-Ley Puntazo Rose' 2008 $9.99
A snoutful of fresh strawberries in a dry pink wine. Bring on Summer!
Typical average results, 7.5% worthy, 92.5% I don't want you to taste.
Blisters on my tongue healing until the second Cape show in 10 days and I get to do it all over again. New wines of course.
Monday, March 16, 2009
WWW-Wine Wont Work
Happy St. Patrick's Day! Wine won't work with corned beef and cabbage. The saltiness of the corned beef desensitizes your taste buds, plus all that salt makes you thirsty, so pour a couple of cold beers, green color optional, and enjoy your gourmet kinship with the Irish. And it is beer to be served whether your corned beef is pink in color, the NY style, or grey, the New England style. Another battle between New York and Boston. Again, there are no wrong answers, just your personal preference. If you find a butcher that makes his own New England style corned beef, ask a couple of weeks in advance if he will make you corned spare ribs! Then make sure your next appointment with your doctor is in the far away future so you dont get yelled at.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Wine Mythbuster
Rule # 1. If you like the wine, it's good wine.
Rule # 2. If the wine tastes good to you with the food you are serving, it's the right wine to serve.
Chianti does not go with red sauce! In fact almost all red wine from Tuscany, Chianti the most famous, does not go with red sauce.
Tuscany is home of white beans, olive oil and Sangiovese. Sangioves is the dominant grape of Chianti. It has a slight sour cherry, Morello, flavor. So would you put sour cherries in your red sauce? Nope. Other than a homemade pasta called Picci, you do not see pasta in Tuscany except in tourist places. The nickname for the people of Tuscany, and I apologize in advance for the spelling, is Mangiafagioles, The Beaneaters. For you Boston Red Sox fans, that was the name of the Red Sox, before Red Sox. Tuscans pour olive oil on their dishes like American kids pour ketchup on their fries! The cloyingness of the oil is a perfect foil for the high acid of the Sangiovese grape. The best steaks are to be found in Tuscany too. Chianina, again spelling apologies, is the local best breed of cow for meat. It is high in fat content, cooked rare on a wood fire and is yummy with Chianti and other Tuscan reds. The beef is so rich that it is common to liberally apply Kosher salt and lemon juice to a Tuscan steak. The Tuscans also love grilled game birds and wild boar stews. These foods taste terrific with Tuscan reds. Secret ingredient in stew from Tuscany, a spoonful of unsweetened cocoa powder at the finish! You will not believe how it enrichens the colour and flavor of stews.
Southern Italian red wines are the perfect foil for red sauce. The acidity from the tomato and the low acid from grapes like Primitivo, Negroamaro and Nero d'Avola compliment each other for some sure-fire tasty combos. In addition, those three grapes make great inexpensive wine! And in this economy, inexpensive and delicious is a great match.
Rule # 2. If the wine tastes good to you with the food you are serving, it's the right wine to serve.
Chianti does not go with red sauce! In fact almost all red wine from Tuscany, Chianti the most famous, does not go with red sauce.
Tuscany is home of white beans, olive oil and Sangiovese. Sangioves is the dominant grape of Chianti. It has a slight sour cherry, Morello, flavor. So would you put sour cherries in your red sauce? Nope. Other than a homemade pasta called Picci, you do not see pasta in Tuscany except in tourist places. The nickname for the people of Tuscany, and I apologize in advance for the spelling, is Mangiafagioles, The Beaneaters. For you Boston Red Sox fans, that was the name of the Red Sox, before Red Sox. Tuscans pour olive oil on their dishes like American kids pour ketchup on their fries! The cloyingness of the oil is a perfect foil for the high acid of the Sangiovese grape. The best steaks are to be found in Tuscany too. Chianina, again spelling apologies, is the local best breed of cow for meat. It is high in fat content, cooked rare on a wood fire and is yummy with Chianti and other Tuscan reds. The beef is so rich that it is common to liberally apply Kosher salt and lemon juice to a Tuscan steak. The Tuscans also love grilled game birds and wild boar stews. These foods taste terrific with Tuscan reds. Secret ingredient in stew from Tuscany, a spoonful of unsweetened cocoa powder at the finish! You will not believe how it enrichens the colour and flavor of stews.
Southern Italian red wines are the perfect foil for red sauce. The acidity from the tomato and the low acid from grapes like Primitivo, Negroamaro and Nero d'Avola compliment each other for some sure-fire tasty combos. In addition, those three grapes make great inexpensive wine! And in this economy, inexpensive and delicious is a great match.
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