Another great find from this year's Cape Cod Spring Fling Tasting was the Graham Beck The Ridge Syrah 2005 at $29.99 a bottle. Graham Beck is on my short list of best all-around bang-for-the-buck winemakers in the world. Although most of them are under $20 a bottle, this amazing Syrah is a steal at 30.
Syrah and elegance are two words that are rarely in the same sentence. The Graham Beck Syrah is elegant. Silky smooth in the mouth it has typical gamey-peppery syrah flavors without the barnyardy typicity of Rhone wines nor the Raspberry fruitiness of Australian Shiraz, same grape, different spelling. In combination with this elegance is still the power you expect from a Syrah.
This is a great choice if you plan on serving a leg of lamb for Easter dinner. Smooth enough for the occasional wine drinking relative and complex enough for the astute wine drinker. I can't wait to try it with marinated lamb chops on the grill.
Graham Beck makes a few different Syrahs, make sure you get the one that has "The Ridge" on the label.
11 down, wow this is fun!
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Next Hot Red Grape
If it looks like Merlot, blossoms like Merlot, changes color like Merlot and ripens like Merlot, it's Merlot!? Nope, and don't be ashamed, it fooled millions of people for over 100 years. It's called Carmenere.
With the advent of DNA analysis of grape varieties, many myths and "truths" have been dispelled in the wine business. One of the biggest is the long thought extinction of Carmenere. Originally in the classic Bordeaux blend it was not replanted after the Phyloxera blight in the late 1800's. What was unknown was that the grape was planted in Chile and it expanded its cultivation range as all wine growers thought it was Merlot. Prior to DNA analysis, the science you used to identify grape varieties was the science of Ampelography, leaf patterns. Today, most Carmenere is picked separately from Merlot and for good reason. Even though the grapes look alike, flower alike, change color alike and the juice in the fruit ripens alike, the seeds in the Carmenere stay bitter for an extra week or two. You just have to wait to make a great wine. In Bordeaux with its cooler climate and shorter growing season, the grape was allowed to die out because 9 years out of 10 the seeds never ripened and you couldn't help but make bitter wine.
Carmenere today is where Malbec was 10 years ago. Consumers are just finding out about it. The wine is smooth like Merlot but has more flavor in addition, the grape produces the same organic compound found in chocolate that gives us that lovey-dovey feeling. I am getting consumers giving me feedback after tasting the wine to the effect, " I don't like dry red wines, but I loved this?!"
In the store today we have one from Cono Sur of Chile, where else. It retails for $9.99 a bottle and in three months time it has gone from obscure to the number one selling red wine. Equally good with all red meats it excels with pork. I remember the Tuscans add cocoa powder to their wild boar stew, so no surprise there.
Caution! Some of the winemakers are not waiting long enough for the seeds to ripen and this makes a green tasting wine. You won't find any yucky Carmeneres at my store, cuz I taste all the bad wines, so you only have to taste the good ones.
With the advent of DNA analysis of grape varieties, many myths and "truths" have been dispelled in the wine business. One of the biggest is the long thought extinction of Carmenere. Originally in the classic Bordeaux blend it was not replanted after the Phyloxera blight in the late 1800's. What was unknown was that the grape was planted in Chile and it expanded its cultivation range as all wine growers thought it was Merlot. Prior to DNA analysis, the science you used to identify grape varieties was the science of Ampelography, leaf patterns. Today, most Carmenere is picked separately from Merlot and for good reason. Even though the grapes look alike, flower alike, change color alike and the juice in the fruit ripens alike, the seeds in the Carmenere stay bitter for an extra week or two. You just have to wait to make a great wine. In Bordeaux with its cooler climate and shorter growing season, the grape was allowed to die out because 9 years out of 10 the seeds never ripened and you couldn't help but make bitter wine.
Carmenere today is where Malbec was 10 years ago. Consumers are just finding out about it. The wine is smooth like Merlot but has more flavor in addition, the grape produces the same organic compound found in chocolate that gives us that lovey-dovey feeling. I am getting consumers giving me feedback after tasting the wine to the effect, " I don't like dry red wines, but I loved this?!"
In the store today we have one from Cono Sur of Chile, where else. It retails for $9.99 a bottle and in three months time it has gone from obscure to the number one selling red wine. Equally good with all red meats it excels with pork. I remember the Tuscans add cocoa powder to their wild boar stew, so no surprise there.
Caution! Some of the winemakers are not waiting long enough for the seeds to ripen and this makes a green tasting wine. You won't find any yucky Carmeneres at my store, cuz I taste all the bad wines, so you only have to taste the good ones.
Friday, March 26, 2010
West Coast Rocks
The other night I was worried that I was late for my daily wine blog. I was so happy when I noticed that the time stamp for this Google blog is west coast time. I can wait for my teenager to come home and only worry about him and not worry about getting this done in time. I got hours and hours to write. I must pick a wine tonight to pay tribute to the West Coast.
I don't like most Zinfandels. The red ones more than the white-pink ones. The other day a customer suggested I try Artezin Zinfandel. I did. And I loved it. 2006 Mendicino is delicious. Good fruit, not over the top fruit, balanced with some spice notes and some acid, not all alcohol. Perfect wine for catsup covered cuisine. I love that aliteration. Been using it for years.
Anyway, I also tried their Dry Creek Zinfandel, over $20 a bottle while the Mendicino is in the teens, and it was delicious too. Then I found out it was owned by Hess. Hess also makes Glen Carlou in South Africa, which I love. More on those wines on another night.
Now that west coast time has kicked in, I can lay back, wax my surfboard, and chill. Not the Zin though.
2 more down, this is fun,
I don't like most Zinfandels. The red ones more than the white-pink ones. The other day a customer suggested I try Artezin Zinfandel. I did. And I loved it. 2006 Mendicino is delicious. Good fruit, not over the top fruit, balanced with some spice notes and some acid, not all alcohol. Perfect wine for catsup covered cuisine. I love that aliteration. Been using it for years.
Anyway, I also tried their Dry Creek Zinfandel, over $20 a bottle while the Mendicino is in the teens, and it was delicious too. Then I found out it was owned by Hess. Hess also makes Glen Carlou in South Africa, which I love. More on those wines on another night.
Now that west coast time has kicked in, I can lay back, wax my surfboard, and chill. Not the Zin though.
2 more down, this is fun,
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Wine from the Cape
NO, not Cape Town, although there will a lot of wines from South Africa in the coming blogs, but from my annual crashing of a Cape Cod wine trade show that is my personal first day of spring.
This year one of the big hits was a familiar friend in a new vintage. The 2007 MOMA from the Rubicone of Italy made by Umberto Cesari, read your Caeser for Rubicone stories, was just delicious. A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the red wine is smooth, full of flavor and easy to drink with or without food. The MOMA has been a steady staple in the store for many years and this is the best I have ever tried. I would not serve it with red sauce, but a meaty Bolognese or grilled meat or hearty stews will work fine.
I visited Cesari almost ten years ago and had a wonderful time visiting a gracious host and talented winemaker. It's always good to support nice people in the wine business.
I guess crossing the Cape Cod Canal is my Rubicone of Spring.
This year one of the big hits was a familiar friend in a new vintage. The 2007 MOMA from the Rubicone of Italy made by Umberto Cesari, read your Caeser for Rubicone stories, was just delicious. A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the red wine is smooth, full of flavor and easy to drink with or without food. The MOMA has been a steady staple in the store for many years and this is the best I have ever tried. I would not serve it with red sauce, but a meaty Bolognese or grilled meat or hearty stews will work fine.
I visited Cesari almost ten years ago and had a wonderful time visiting a gracious host and talented winemaker. It's always good to support nice people in the wine business.
I guess crossing the Cape Cod Canal is my Rubicone of Spring.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Winter Wine
Well, it's after midnight so I missed my first self-imposed deadline. I'm human.
I consider this still Wednesday.
Two weeks ago Josep Ardevol winemaker and owner of Ardevol wines in Priorat Spain stopped in the store and tasted me on his amazing wines. Although he has some amazing great pricey reds, I was mesmerized for the second vintage in a row by his least expensive wine, Anjoli 2007.
You can get all the official details on the Boutique Wines website, his broker in the US.
The 2006 was a gorgeous drink at the end of last year. But it sold out before I could get greedy on buying a ton of it. The 2007 has the same amazing winter holiday spice flavor in a dry red wine. I served the 2006 with a roast beef. The 2007 has more tannic acid to it so it will be better balanced with a fattier piece of meat like a prime rib or beef or lamb with a creamy or butter based sauce. I also think the 2007 has more aging potential and I will squirrel away half a case at home.
There is no other wine like it with a similar flavor profile. I am thinking it might be sneaky good with grilled pork ribs.
Off to bed.
6 down, 594 to go.
I consider this still Wednesday.
Two weeks ago Josep Ardevol winemaker and owner of Ardevol wines in Priorat Spain stopped in the store and tasted me on his amazing wines. Although he has some amazing great pricey reds, I was mesmerized for the second vintage in a row by his least expensive wine, Anjoli 2007.
You can get all the official details on the Boutique Wines website, his broker in the US.
The 2006 was a gorgeous drink at the end of last year. But it sold out before I could get greedy on buying a ton of it. The 2007 has the same amazing winter holiday spice flavor in a dry red wine. I served the 2006 with a roast beef. The 2007 has more tannic acid to it so it will be better balanced with a fattier piece of meat like a prime rib or beef or lamb with a creamy or butter based sauce. I also think the 2007 has more aging potential and I will squirrel away half a case at home.
There is no other wine like it with a similar flavor profile. I am thinking it might be sneaky good with grilled pork ribs.
Off to bed.
6 down, 594 to go.
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Spring has sprung
The weather on first day and night of Spring was fabulous in the Boston area. After the long winter of red wine drinking, the weather enticed me to drink white. So I did.
Four fabulous German whites from deep in the cellar were dug out for this momentous occasion. 70 degrees in Boston in March is truly momentous.
Four great wines from four great regions in Germany, all of Spatlese quality, all of them old, and all of them delicious.
Egon Muller Scharzhofberger 1996 Spatlese had an extruded cork that broke through the top of the capsule. I had little hope for the wine. I was proven wrong. Just a glint of gold in the color and classic petrol aromas enhanced by a hint of apple, this wine although tasty at the beginning of the evening was the eventual best bottle by far after an hour in. Loved it with roasted root veggies.
The Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg 1999 Spatlese was the winner right from the start. Oodles of green apple fruit with perfectly clashing acidity, even the waitress when she opened the bottle went OOOH. Sadly it faded after an hour, still delicious but the others started to beat up on it. Worked very nicely early with the stuffed sole.
The 2001 J. J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese was a marvel! The cork was reluctant to come out, but after reaming the corkscrew through, I was rewarded with wonderful spritz in the ultimate Mosel wine. Watching the fine fine bubbles come up through the bottle but dissappear in the glass was amazing. Classic apple-fusel aromas and flavors permeated through the wine's evening. This is the one I just wanted to sip and savor. Food optional.
Finally the 2002 Langwerth von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Spatlesewas slowest to come out of the glass. Never felt it was flawed, but it needed more than coaxing to come out of the glass. About an hour it, it showed the power and finesse of classic Rheingau Rieslling. It was fun to go back and forth after the first hour with the Scharzhofberger.
The perfect start to the Spring tasting season.
4 more down, 595 to go.
Four fabulous German whites from deep in the cellar were dug out for this momentous occasion. 70 degrees in Boston in March is truly momentous.
Four great wines from four great regions in Germany, all of Spatlese quality, all of them old, and all of them delicious.
Egon Muller Scharzhofberger 1996 Spatlese had an extruded cork that broke through the top of the capsule. I had little hope for the wine. I was proven wrong. Just a glint of gold in the color and classic petrol aromas enhanced by a hint of apple, this wine although tasty at the beginning of the evening was the eventual best bottle by far after an hour in. Loved it with roasted root veggies.
The Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg 1999 Spatlese was the winner right from the start. Oodles of green apple fruit with perfectly clashing acidity, even the waitress when she opened the bottle went OOOH. Sadly it faded after an hour, still delicious but the others started to beat up on it. Worked very nicely early with the stuffed sole.
The 2001 J. J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese was a marvel! The cork was reluctant to come out, but after reaming the corkscrew through, I was rewarded with wonderful spritz in the ultimate Mosel wine. Watching the fine fine bubbles come up through the bottle but dissappear in the glass was amazing. Classic apple-fusel aromas and flavors permeated through the wine's evening. This is the one I just wanted to sip and savor. Food optional.
Finally the 2002 Langwerth von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Spatlesewas slowest to come out of the glass. Never felt it was flawed, but it needed more than coaxing to come out of the glass. About an hour it, it showed the power and finesse of classic Rheingau Rieslling. It was fun to go back and forth after the first hour with the Scharzhofberger.
The perfect start to the Spring tasting season.
4 more down, 595 to go.
Monday, March 22, 2010
Julie, Julia and Me
I'm back. After computer issues and other assorted useless and lame excuses, I'm back. And not only back but back with a purpose.
The bride rented Julie and Julia, we watched the movie and I am still ticked Streep didn't win the Oscar. The idea of 534 recipes in 365 days and posting them in a blog excited me. The bride and I talked about it and so, starting today 600 wines in 365 days.
The wines to be counted will be recently tasted, any mention of wines tasted years ago will not count. Picking out the first one was a tough decision. Saturday night I tasted 4 great German Rieslings, my first love in wine, and that took the lead. Thursday, I spent the day on Cape Cod tasting 200 wines at a trade show held to inform the soon-to-open seasonal restaurants down there what was new to the market, and there were lots of wines worth mention. However, rarely do I drink a wine that goes on the top ten of all time personal taste list and it's a Champagne. Julia would want it this way. What she wouldn't want is the price. Wicked expensive.
1999 vintage Cristal Champagne from Louis Roederer is just about perfect wine. Full of rich flavors and full of tiny bubbles, I tasted it a friend's restaurant to celebrate something that I already forget. That's it, the first wine. Perfect and pricey. The only other Champagnes I have tried that rivaled it were the 1947 Krug I drank in either 1986 or 1988 to celebrate a friend's 40th birthday and both 1946 and 1948 were bad years for wine, and the 1985 Rene Lalou from Mumm's. Which we bought on closeout when the firm discontinued the brand. The Rene Lalou had the best looking bottle of all-time too. Fluted glass in a gorgeous shape.
Oh, and Champagne chocolate covered strawberries are not a good match. Looks good in the other Julia's movie, but the taste doesn't work for me. When visiting Champagne, the locals put out a dish of classic salted mixed nuts or crackers to enjoy and evaluate Champagne.
One down 599 to go. Those 4 German wines are coming tomorrow.
The bride rented Julie and Julia, we watched the movie and I am still ticked Streep didn't win the Oscar. The idea of 534 recipes in 365 days and posting them in a blog excited me. The bride and I talked about it and so, starting today 600 wines in 365 days.
The wines to be counted will be recently tasted, any mention of wines tasted years ago will not count. Picking out the first one was a tough decision. Saturday night I tasted 4 great German Rieslings, my first love in wine, and that took the lead. Thursday, I spent the day on Cape Cod tasting 200 wines at a trade show held to inform the soon-to-open seasonal restaurants down there what was new to the market, and there were lots of wines worth mention. However, rarely do I drink a wine that goes on the top ten of all time personal taste list and it's a Champagne. Julia would want it this way. What she wouldn't want is the price. Wicked expensive.
1999 vintage Cristal Champagne from Louis Roederer is just about perfect wine. Full of rich flavors and full of tiny bubbles, I tasted it a friend's restaurant to celebrate something that I already forget. That's it, the first wine. Perfect and pricey. The only other Champagnes I have tried that rivaled it were the 1947 Krug I drank in either 1986 or 1988 to celebrate a friend's 40th birthday and both 1946 and 1948 were bad years for wine, and the 1985 Rene Lalou from Mumm's. Which we bought on closeout when the firm discontinued the brand. The Rene Lalou had the best looking bottle of all-time too. Fluted glass in a gorgeous shape.
Oh, and Champagne chocolate covered strawberries are not a good match. Looks good in the other Julia's movie, but the taste doesn't work for me. When visiting Champagne, the locals put out a dish of classic salted mixed nuts or crackers to enjoy and evaluate Champagne.
One down 599 to go. Those 4 German wines are coming tomorrow.
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